Family dinner was the nonnegotiable moment of my day growing up. Every day, at 5:30pm, my three brothers (triplets) and I sat down to a meal that was classic American fare—meatloaf and potatoes-type stuff. 

I wanted nothing to do with any side that included vegetables, and the burden of getting me to eat them fell on my mother. She’d let me take a few baby carrots out of the fridge if I absolutely couldn’t stomach the spinach on the plate. I’d push the lettuce and onions off my burgers. My brother would torment me by rubbing raw tomatoes on my food, which made it instantly inedible, of course. I guess you could say I was a picky eater. 

Fast forward to a Buddhist-studies-induced existential crisis that had me sidelining meat for all kinds of reasons, starting with the cognitive dissonance between my love for animals and the planet, and my carnivorous habits. Now, thanks to a pandemic that has underscored the brutal reality of what it takes to produce our beef, pork, and poultry, there are signs that an increasing number of Americans are also reconsidering their meat-eating habits. 

When shelter-in-place orders were active in much of the country, almost a quarter of Americans reported that they were eating more plant-based foods.  Meat sales grew as well, thanks to more people cooking at home, but this growth was outpaced by the soaring demand for plant-based alternatives, such as plant-based meats, plant-based cheese, and tofu and tempeh. Plant-based meats saw a 264 percent rise in sales over March and April. In the face of rising meat prices, various shortages, and limited grocery trips, plant-based pantry staples became more appealing.

Observers say the recent drive to eat more plants is partly fueled by a new awareness of how our meat is produced, and concern for the workers who produce it. News reports have focused on the terrible working conditions at these facilities, where shoulder-to-shoulder quarters have led to the rapid spread of the virus at more than 300 sites. The outbreaks have caused more than 26,000 coronavirus cases and counting, according to FERN, as well as the partial closure of many processing plants. As meat processing slowed, industrial farmers started destroying animals en masse, which only highlighted the heartbreaking conditions suffered by farm animals, as well.

“It’s in these moments when the gruesome reality of animal agriculture pierces into our consciousness — because of Covid or whatever else — that we start to wake up,” remarked Rachel Konrad, chief communications officer of Impossible Foods, in a conversation with Vox. 

I finally learned to love vegetables after spending many years growing them on organic farms. I enjoyed almost everything about farming— teaming up with the farm crew for early morning coffee sessions and planning our daily agenda. Picking ears of corn, hearty eggplants, and colorful peppers as the sun streamed across the fields. Popping tomatoes into my mouth, fresh off the vine, while I cooked lunch for fellow workers. I dug carrots and potatoes for ten hours at a stretch, packed bags of greens in the cooler until my fingers froze, became accustomed to rising in the dead of night to haul our goods to market, and worked to build sales relationships in the region. I also bonded deeply with friends over all of these arduous joys. 

The work honestly broke me down to the core at times, unearthing personal traumas at the same time that it helped to heal them. Ultimately, I decided it was time for me to move on. I was fortunate to be able to walk away without the financial burden of trying to keep a farm going. But what I carried with me was a greater awareness and respect for the plants themselves, for those who produce our food, and for the many challenges they face. I hope to be the best advocate I can for farm workers. I will likely return. 

One way I support farms is by encouraging more people to eat vegetables, local and organic, if possible. (My family finds this turn of events hysterical.) And the way I do that is to propose plant-rich makeovers of their favorite dishes. 

One of the biggest obstacles to changing our diets is a fondness for, and a reluctance to give up, the meals we grew up with—like meatloaf and potatoes. In the course of passing along tips to plant-curious friends, I’ve developed a few reliable practices. I used to throw every vegetable I had into one dish. These days I prefer to highlight just a few at a time—buying peak-season vegetables and creating unique combinations is part of the fun. I also like to make sure that what I’m eating includes a wide variety of plants, grains, and legumes, so I get all the protein and nutrition I need.

MAKEOVER STRATEGIES

Focus on textures and flavors

Eating a plant-rich diet does not mean giving up the meaty, creamy, and egg-y elements you’ve grown to love. It just means relying on plants for them, and using flavor agents.

Use a steak rub seasoning, for instance, before grilling your portobello mushrooms. Sprinkle poultry seasoning into a flour mixture when making tofu, mushroom, or cauliflower fried “chicken.” To create plant-bacon, marinate thinly sliced eggplant, tofu, or tempeh in soy sauce, maple syrup, and smoked paprika, and slow-roast to crisp-chewy perfection. Bacon is all about the texture and sweet-smoky flavor.

Plenty of brands already deliver meaty, creamy, and egg-y for you. Among my favorites, Oatly, Ripple, or Califia for milk, Miyoko’s for cheese and butter, Kite Hill and Forager for yogurt, Field Roast, Gardein, and Beyond Meat for meat replacements, and Just for eggs or mayo. There are many more; pick up a few the next time you’re at the store and find your own favorites.

Learn how to cook plants 

So many people hate brussels sprouts because they grew up eating ones that had been cooked to a mushy death. A revelation for me was discovering how flavorful they—and just about any vegetable—can be if you properly roast, steam, or lightly sauté them. Finding my way around an oven was what ultimately led to my ability to give up meat.

COOKING TIPS: Vegetables have different cook times but the following general guidelines apply.

Roasting: Crank up the heat to at least 400 degrees, cover the veggies lightly in oil and salt (spices too if desired), and space them out a bit on the baking sheet. Then watch as they turn into browned, succulent flavor bombs. 

Sautéing: This is my go-to quick method for most vegetables (barring the hardier, winter varieties). Heat the stove to medium or medium-high, and don’t over stir if you want a good outer sear. Keep the heat lower if garlic is involved. Add a little water and cover hardy greens or vegetables for a quick steam-sauté—this is also a great way to reheat beans and grains. 

Steaming: A steamer basket is cheap and fits into any large pot. Place it over an inch of water and cook greens until just wilted but still bright green. (Careful, it goes quickly!) For summer veggies, cook until just fork-tender. Starchy sweet potatoes and squash can handle a little more heat. 

REBUILD your plate

Most people feel comfortable with the traditional classic plate I grew up with—a high-protein entree with a side of starch and vegetables. So why not build on what’s most familiar?

Let’s say you replace your steak with grilled portobello steak. Make one side green beans topped with a ground tempeh or almond gremolata. For your starch, add a heaping spoonful of polenta. (If you’re concerned about getting enough protein, look here and here). For more suggestions on assembling nutritious, plant-based meals, see the Plate Method, developed by nutritionist Sadia Badiei of Pick Up Limes.

Plant-based cooking can be whatever you want it to be, but it sometimes requires rethinking what we’re used to. While tofu scramble with eggplant bacon makes a great breakfast substitute, for instance, the classic egg-bacon-cheese combo needn’t be your only breakfast possibility. Some go-to’s for me include granola, smoothies, and grain porridges, basically anything on toast, as well as various potato, bean, and veggie hashes. Also, don’t hold back on sauces: I always have hummus or another homemade sauce on hand for an immediate flavor boost. The world is your oyster (mushroom), and once you get started you may well find that cooking plant-based opens up more food possibilities for you. 

The Whole food substitution list

MEATY

TOFU – The days of tofu being gross are over. When prepared well, it makes a great substitute for chicken or seafood, in stir-fries, pasta, casseroles, you name it.

TIP: Try freezing it first for a chewy, layered texture. 

TEMPEH, especially when steamed and marinated, can be the most savory and delicious addition to a dish. Try using any marinade you like for meats, and pan-fry the tempeh in oil. Add more marinade so it gets nice and glazed. Works very well as a ground turkey or chorizo substitute.

WALNUTS (and other nuts), when crushed up, make for an amazing ground meat texture, and lend an appealing fatty quality, too.

LENTILS, especially when combined with nuts and spices, make for a satisfying ground meat substitute.

SEITAN is made using vital wheat gluten (easily found at most natural foods stores), and the high protein flour is used to make many of the meat substitutes you’ll see at stores. It has the perfect texture for something like pastrami, and it’s fun to try to make on your own.

VEGETABLES can be used alone as meat replacements, especially when flavored with plenty of spices and other condiments, like soy sauce. Eggplant in particular is very meaty, and cauliflower is great in a taco when chopped up, roasted, and sprinkled with spices.

GRAINS like rice or quinoa, when cooked to be chewy and artfully combined with veggies and spices, can also become meat-like. For example, you can make an amazing burger by combining chewy rice and lentils with beans for binding, add shredded beets for color and nuts for fattiness, along with loads of the flavor-agents mentioned below.

BEANS are high-protein and can stand alone or be fashioned into something new. Mashed chickpeas, for instance, make an excellent mock tuna salad when combined with mayo, capers, red onion, vinegar, seaweed, and mustard. 

JACKFRUIT and HEARTS OF PALM with their stringy, shredded meat-like textures, can make a great replacement for tuna or crab cakes. (See? It’s all about re-creating the flavors and textures you love.) Find them in a can at most grocery stores. 

MUSHROOMS are my favorite meaty option. Try portobello, lion’s mane, or maitake as a steak, shredded oyster mushrooms as pulled pork or pulled chicken, or king trumpets cut into wedges like scallops or chicken. There is a whole world beyond those button or cremini mushrooms you may be used to, and boy do they taste meaty. Try looking for mushrooms at your local farmers market, where they’re often cheaper and more varied. 

CREAMY

NUTS, often cashews, almonds, or sunflower seeds, can be turned into milks, (sour) creams, and cheeses that mimic goat’s cheese. The nut milks and creams can usually be used in any recipe that calls for cow’s milk or cream. They’re easy to make at home with a blender: just soak the nuts overnight, blend with the desired quantity of water (generally a 1:4 ratio), and strain with cheesecloth.

Adding thickeners such as tapioca starch to a cashew milk can transform nuts into a stretchy, mozzarella-like sauce when heated (this is great for lasagna). Add nutritional yeast for a cheesy flavor. Here are a few more delicious cheese substitutions.

Other options: Coconut milk from a can makes for a really rich cream, especially in Asian-inspired dishes and in desserts. And store-bought plant yogurts have come a long way since their watery start.

OATS are the current craze, especially because they use less water than almonds. (Check out our guide to plant milks.) Oat milk and cream work very well in most recipes.

TAHINI, a paste made from sesame seeds and, in my opinion, the king of all nut or seed butters, makes truly amazing sauces. I love to mix it with lemon and pour it over roasted sweet potatoes. Add some crispy chickpeas or seared field roast sausage and steamed greens for a quick, healthy dinner.

TOFU, blended with citrus, salt, and nutritional yeast in a food processor makes a very convincing ricotta or cream cheese. Add extra water, dill, and shredded cucumbers for plant-based tzatziki.

BEANS can serve as the creamy element in any sauce, or be a healthy replacement for mayonnaise. 

BUTTER – I usually use oil or else buy plant-based butter from the store. (Look for one that doesn’t include palm oil.) But I’ve seen butter made with coconut oil and aquafaba (the liquid from a can of chickpeas). Use plant-based butter, flour, and plant milk to make a classic béchamel sauce. 

EGGY

TOFU – All you need for a delicious plant-rich scramble is a block of firm tofu, shredded with a fork or your fingers. I like to use turmeric for color, chile powder, cumin, salt and sometimes mustard or soy sauce for flavor, plus whatever vegetables I have on hand. Sometimes I add silken tofu and black salt for a soft scramble appeal. That’s just a start — try out different flavor combinations to find what you like. Thinly sliced and fried, tofu also makes a great “egg white” to be smothered in a creamy hollandaise sauce. Crispy marinated tofu on a bowl of noodle soup can more than replace a hard-boiled egg. 

CHICKPEA FLOUR, made of ground chickpeas and very common in Indian cooking, can be mixed with water and/or tofu to make a delicious omelette or filling for a quiche. It can be used in baking as well, with great results. 

AQUAFABA, the liquid from a can of chickpeas, can replace the eggs in homemade mayo or aioli, as well as in meringue and other baked goods. About 3 tablespoons of aquafaba makes one egg equivalent, or 2 tablespoons for an egg white. Other egg replacements include mashed banana or sweet potato, applesauce, as well as ground flax seeds or chia seeds mixed with water. Here are seven egg substitutes for baking.

Essential Flavor-Agents

Tamari, miso, vegetable broth, oils, citrus and vinegars, nutritional yeast, mustard, olives, capers, dried chiles and chile condiments, herbs, and spices. Indian black salt seasoning has an eggy flavor, reminiscent of sulfur, that you may be missing in a veganized egg dish. Load up on these. If it tastes good, you won’t miss the meat!

SAMPLE MAKEOVER

One of my favorite dinners growing up was a spaghetti bolognese (without the side salad). This makeover is kid-friendly, and easy.

Bolognese is a rich, hearty sauce that’s usually made with carrots, celery, and onions, canned tomatoes and tomato paste, herbs and warming spices like basil and nutmeg, and sometimes some wine and cream. All that flavor already comes from plants, and if you want to make it creamy, simply use one of the plant-milks suggested above, unsweetened.

For the meat, I like to use a mix of lentils, walnuts, and mushrooms for the right combination of texture and flavor. Simply cook about a cup of lentils in water or vegetable broth, then drain and add to a food processor along with equal parts walnuts and a couple cups of cremini mushrooms. Process until it is chunky, like ground meat.

After sautéing your onion, celery, carrots, and garlic, add the lentil mixture to the pot, and cook until the water has evaporated. Add tomatoes, spices, salt, wine, and cream, if using, then simmer for as long as you wish, at least a half hour for the flavors to deepen.

Serve it on top of spaghetti, and top with chopped parsley and some nutritional yeast. Use garlic bread toasted in olive oil to mop up the sauce. Enjoy!

addendum

An important disclosure: while a plant-based eater myself, I have enormous respect for the small meat and dairy producers I’ve come to know during my time on small farms. They tend to have the greatest respect for their animals, and do what they do with intention. It is not my preference to consume these products, but these are not the producers I seek to disrupt. Large factory farms, on the other hand, supply 99 percent of meat in the US and create a swath of social and environmental ills in the process: antibiotic resistance, local water and air pollution, food borne illnesses, the emergence of new viral-borne diseases (like Covid-19), inhumane animal conditions, a massive carbon footprint, as well as the aforementioned worker abuses, to name a few.

While pasture-raised cattle in regenerative agriculture systems are certainly better than factory farms from a public health perspective, the touted potential for increased carbon storage is complicated. Much organic vegetable production includes the use of fish emulsion and animal manure products, but these are not the only ways to add nutrients to soil (think compost). Check out our guide to the most sustainable fish to eat, another for how to avoid factory farmed meat, and another for lowering your meat consumption — even cutting back can have powerful climate benefits.

Alec Tilly is a News Fellow based in San Francisco, CA.

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